Bags… from bacteria? Modern Synthesis raises $5.5m to expand biomaterials platform

[Disclosure: AgFunder—the parent company of AgFunderNews—is an investor in Modern Synthesis.]

Modern Synthesis—a London-based startup developing biomaterials for high-end fashion brands—has closed a $5.5 million round led by Extantia Capital.

The Seed 2 round, supported by Artesian and Collaborative Fund, will help Modern Synthesis expand production at its pilot facility and service more brands on its waitlist, said the firm, which is working with Danish fashion brand GANNI towards the commercial launch of GANNI’s signature Bou Bag featuring Modern Synthesis’ biomaterials.

Founded by ex-Adidas designer Jen Keane (CEO) and synthetic biologist Dr. Ben Reeve (CTO), Modern Synthesis combines nanocellulose produced by sugar-eating bacteria with natural textiles such as hemp, linen or lyocell to create a range of biomaterials from supple leather-like textiles to transparent films.

According to Keane, the process is “similar to how rebar is used to reinforce concrete” and generates “petrochemical and plastic-free” materials that “can be processed on the same equipment as conventional textiles.”

“The first thing that struck us was how this material rivals traditional leathers in look and feel but can also offer something entirely new that excites designers,” said Extantia Capital partner Yair Reem.

“Our investment decision was driven by the company’s potential to revolutionize traditional manufacturing processes and drive real impact at scale,” added Alexandra Clunies-Ross, partner at Artesian Investments.

‘High value, low impact materials’

Keane and Reeve initially grew nanocellulose-producing bacteria together with textiles but have since separated their process into three steps to make it more scalable.

In the first step, nanocellulose is grown in fermentation vessels. In the second, the firm enhances the nanostructures in nanocellulose to alter pliability and strength. In the third step, the nanocellulose is combined with textiles such as linen and hemp.

According to Keane: “Anyone can grow nanocellulose and we believe there will be a robust industry in that. Where our expertise and our patents lie is in the transformation of that nanocellulose into high value, low impact materials. We are able to manipulate and enhance the nano structures through our patented technology and further improve properties with other bio-based ingredients.”

This enables the company to make a wide variety of textiles from “drapable materials to more transparent films to a more robust textile that’s heavier and more leather-like,” added Keane.

Asked about scaling up, she said: “We had pilot equipment installed and the first large panels came off our line just a few weeks ago. We’ve also begun external technical trials with manufacturing partners which have been going quite well.”

Further reading:

Meet the founder: Modern Synthesis’ Jen Keane on biomaterials, bacteria, and designer bags…